EditorialServing chopsticks, on the small bowl, which only recently started appearing on tables at Chilli Kitchen, a restaurant in Beijing, May 21, 2020. (Giulia Marchi/The New York Times)
EditorialServing chopsticks, on the small bowl, which only recently started appearing on tables at Chilli Kitchen, a restaurant in Beijing, May 21, 2020. (Giulia Marchi/The New York Times)