EditorialSpecialties cooked by Martha Soledad include, clockwise from left, chicken in a mole de rancho, roasted jalape?os, a salsa of roasted jalape?o, and tortillas dusted with toasted, dried chiltepin powder and doused in manteca, or lard, in Veracruz, Mexico, in May 2023. (Adrian Wilson/The New York Times)
EditorialTorrijas (Spanish-style French toast), which were cooked on a flattop outdoor griddle, in Santa Barbara, Calif., May 3, 2023. Food styled by Carrie Purcell. (Andrew Purcell/The New York Times)
EditorialTorrijas (Spanish-style French toast), which were cooked on a flattop outdoor griddle, in Santa Barbara, Calif., May 3, 2023. Food styled by Carrie Purcell. (Andrew Purcell/The New York Times)
EditorialTorrijas (Spanish-style French toast), which were cooked on a flattop outdoor griddle, in Santa Barbara, Calif., May 3, 2023. Food styled by Carrie Purcell. (Andrew Purcell/The New York Times)
EditorialTorrijas (Spanish-style French toast), which were cooked on a flattop outdoor griddle, in Santa Barbara, Calif., May 3, 2023. Food styled by Carrie Purcell. (Andrew Purcell/The New York Times)
EditorialTorrijas (Spanish-style French toast), which were cooked on a flattop outdoor griddle, in Santa Barbara, Calif., May 3, 2023. Food styled by Carrie Purcell. (Andrew Purcell/The New York Times)
EditorialTorrijas (Spanish-style French toast), which were cooked on a flattop outdoor griddle, in Santa Barbara, Calif., May 3, 2023. Food styled by Carrie Purcell. (Andrew Purcell/The New York Times)
EditorialTorrijas (Spanish-style French toast), which were cooked on a flattop outdoor griddle, in Santa Barbara, Calif., May 3, 2023. Food styled by Carrie Purcell. (Andrew Purcell/The New York Times)